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How Long Does It Take to Drive Around Madeira? We Tried It in One Day.
Most people think Madeira is small.
Small enough to “see in a day.
Small enough to rush.
So we tried something different.
We drove around the entire island… slowly.
Coffee in Santa Cruz.
Views at Ponta do Rosto.
Espetada at Quinta do Furão.
Waves crashing in Porto Moniz.
Sun melting into the sea in Ponta do Sol.
We started at 9:50.We returned at 19:35.
And not once did it feel rushed.
So… how long does it really take to drive around Madeira?
The Short Answer
If you drive straight without stopping, you could technically circle Madeira in about 4–5 hours.
But that wouldn’t be Madeira for me.
With scenic stops, lunch, short walks, viewpoints, and moments to simply stand still and look, it took us just under 10 hours to complete a full anti-clockwise loop starting and ending in Funchal.
To do this properly, you’ll absolutely want your own car. Public transport simply doesn’t allow this level of freedom. If you’re planning your trip, here’s my full guide on how to rent a car in Madeira including what type of car to choose and what to avoid.
🚗 Rent a Car in Madeira
Renting a car is the easiest way to explore Madeira at your own pace. It gives you full freedom to reach levada walks, viewpoints, hidden beaches and mountain roads that are hard (or impossible) to access by public transport.
We suggest comparing prices and conditions in advance to find the best deal and avoid surprises.
👉 Compare car rental prices in Madeira with DiscoverCars
Tip: Read: 10 Must-Know Tips Before Renting a Car in Madeira
Our Self-Drive Madeira Route (Anti-Clockwise)
We began in Funchal, which is also where most visitors choose to stay.
If you’re still deciding on your base, I’ve broken down the best areas, hotels, and villages in my guide on where to stay in Madeira, based on your travel style and interests. In this guide each levada walk/hike is listed under the municipality where the start point / main access is located.
Here’s how the day unfolded.
Santa Cruz. Coffee by the Sea
10:15
A relaxed coastal town near the airport and an easy first stop before properly setting off.
The sun was already high, the sea shimmering in that impossible Atlantic blue. I watched airplanes land while sipping my coffee. In between the distant hum of engines, there was silence, broken only by waves crashing against the pebbled beach.
It felt like a gentle beginning.
Ponta do Rosto. Where the Island Splits in Two
11:03
There are viewpoints… and then there’s Ponta do Rosto.
It’s impossible to be indifferent to these views. Dramatic. Powerful. Unique. From here you can see both the north and south coasts at once. You’re literally standing on the easternmost point of Madeira.
The wind was strong. The cliffs felt wild. The ocean endless.
This is where you understand you’re on an island in the middle of the Atlantic.
Quinta do Furão. Lunch With a View
11:45 arrival
13:25 departure
Quinta do Furão feels like the end of the road; peaceful, surrounded by vineyards, with views stretching toward Rocha do Navio.
Before lunch, we wandered through the vines and even stopped for photos beside one of the traditional Santana houses nearby, without the crowds you often find elsewhere.
The restaurant serves its own locally made bread, still warm, and we ordered tomato soup and espetada in pau de louro, grilled the traditional way over bay wood. Simple. Local. Perfect.
From the balcony, you could stare at the cliffs for hours and never get bored.
São Vicente. Quiet Memories
14:15
São Vicente holds many of my summer memories, especially the lively arraial festivals.
But I love it even more when it’s quiet.
We walked into the church, through small corners lined with old groceries and vintage shops. There’s something special about seeing the details without the noise.
We stopped at a small bar filled with colourful scarves hanging from the ceiling and ordered a freshly made tangerine poncha for the passenger, for obvious reasons. It was just us and a couple of tourists.
Porto Moniz. Nature’s Amphitheatre
14:45
You can’t pass through Porto Moniz and not stop.
The power of the waves crashing into volcanic rock transforms the natural pools into something theatrical… blue water, white foam, green mountains rising behind.
It’s like nature built its own amphitheatre.
Even if you don’t swim, just standing there is an experience.
Achadas da Cruz. Vertical Drama
15:21
Achadas da Cruz holds one of the most impressive vertical cable cars on the island.
We didn’t go down this time, but even standing at the top is enough. The cliffs drop dramatically into the ocean below, and the scale of it all reminds you how raw Madeira still is.
It’s one of those stops that makes you pause. There’s also a nice cafe on site.
Jardim do Mar. Ice Cream & Ocean Air
16:35
By the time we reached Jardim do Mar, the afternoon light had softened.
Sunny. Windy. Peaceful.
We walked along the narrow pedestrian lanes, passed the small church, and followed the promenade until we reached Portinho café, where we stopped for locally made pitanga and passion fruit ice cream.
Creamy. Slightly tangy. Completely worth it.
Sometimes the smallest stops become the sweetest memories.
Ponta do Sol. Sunset Moment
17:30
The sun was beginning its descent when we arrived.
We walked to the bridge at the end of the pier and watched it melt into the sea. Golden light on the cliffs. Calm water below.
After a full day of movement, this felt like stillness.
Câmara de Lobos. A Perfect Ending
18:55
As evening settled, the lights around the bay began to glow.
Câmara de Lobos is always a good idea at the end of the day, colourful boats resting in the harbour, locals chatting outside bars, the hum of island life slowing down.
We finished with a poncha and a picado and that quiet feeling of mission accomplished.
19:35 return to Funchal
Planning Your Own Self-Drive Around Madeira
If you’re considering doing this route yourself:
- Base yourself in Funchal or along the south coast
- Start mid-morning to avoid rushing
- Drive anti-clockwise for smoother coastal transitions
- Allow 9–10 hours with stops
- And make sure you’re confident driving mountain roads
Again, having the right vehicle makes all the difference — especially on Madeira’s steep, winding roads. You can read my full breakdown of renting a car in Madeira here.
And if you’re still deciding where to base yourself before the road trip, check out my guide on where to stay in Madeira to choose the area that fits your travel style.
Final Thoughts
This wasn’t about “doing” Madeira in a day.
It was about seeing how the island changes; east to north, north to west, west to south, in light, in wind, in mood.
Madeira may look small on the map.
But when you drive it slowly, it feels endless.
So now I’ll ask you:
How long do you think it would take you to drive around Madeira?
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